The present invention relates to a method for sewing stretchable cloths by using a stretchable cloth tape, and a specific stretchable cloth. In the method of the invention, an entire garment as well as a collar, a zipper portion, a neckline, or the like can be finished beautifully with a certain rigidity and can function efficiently.
Conventionally, when cloths made from synthetic fibers, such as nylon, rayon, acetate, satin, crepe de Chine and georgette, fabrics woven from natural materials, such as silk and cashmere, and compound materials are sewn to each other to form collars and front facings, for example, in case a collar 70 shown in FIG. 9(a) is formed, firstly, a cloth is cut into two pieces (right and left pieces or upper and lower pieces), as shown in FIGS. 9(b) through 9(f). Since the cut cloths are not laterally symmetrical to each other due to movements of the cloths themselves, a stretchable core piece 72, such as a stretchable bias core piece, a stretchable processed thread core piece, or a stretchable non-woven cloth core piece, which is made of a cloth woven from spandex (stretchable thread) such as Lycra (manufactured by E. I. Du Pont de Nemours & Co., trade name), is thermally adhered to a reverse side of a cloth 71 to thereby make the cloth 71 symmetrical. Then, first stitches 74 are formed by a sewing machine to sew the cloth 71 and the stretchable core piece 72 together, and a cloth 73 is laminated and sewn onto the cloth 71 by applying the second stitches 75 thereon.
However, according to the conventional sewing method, as shown in FIGS. 9(d) through 9(f), when the lower cloth 73 is laminated on the upper cloth 71 attached with the core piece 72, and sewn thereto by applying the first stitches by a sewing machine, as shown by arrows (solid line arrows in FIGS. 9(d) and 9(e) indicate directions in which the cloth is pushed, and dotted line arrows in FIGS. 9(e) and 9(f) indicate sewing directions), the upper cloth 71 with the core piece is pushed backward by "forward feeding" of the cloth by a pressure foot 77 of the sewing machine, and the lower cloth 73 without a core piece is pushed forward by "backward feeding" of the cloth by feeding members 76 of the sewing machine. Thus, the cloths 71, 73 are stretched in the directions opposite to each other. As a result, "twist phenomenon" occurs in the cloths 71, 73, and the cloths are fixed in the stretched condition.
Further, the cloths 71, 73 sewn together by the first stitches 74 are folded back such that inner sides of the cloths orient outwardly, and second stitches 75 are formed on margin portions of the first stitches. Due to the "backward feeding" of the cloth by the feeding members 76 and "forward feeding" of the cloth by the pressure foot 77 as described above, the twist phenomenon occurs in the cloths again, and the cloths are deformed in an S shape. Thus, it is impossible to sew two cloths to be laterally symmetrical. This is a fate of one direction sewing of the sewing machine.
Therefore, by the conventional sewing method, in case the cloths woven by superfine fibers such as Tactel (made by E. I. Du Pont de Nemours & Co., trade name), which is referred to as "Tactel cloth" hereinafter, loose (drooping condition without restoring force) and wrinkled (not stretched tightly) cloths woven from rayon, or smooth cloths such as Burberry cloth and gabardine cloth, are sewn to each other, as described above, since the cloths are sewn in one direction, due to a feed member phenomenon by the sewing machine, displacement in the opposite directions is caused between the upper cloth and lower cloth. Since the cloths are sewn in the displaced condition, cloths after sewn have a twist in one direction. As a result, the cloth is not symmetrical laterally, and in these cloths, there are problems in sewing. Thus, not only these cloths, but collars of garments sewn by the conventional sewing method are sewn asymmetrically more or less.
Also, according to the conventional sewing method, as shown in FIGS. 10(a) through 10(c), there is caused a so-called "reverse warping phenomenon", in which an opening portion 78, a collar 79 of a suit, and a front facing 80 under buttons are bent or warped.
Thus, according to the conventional sewing method, it is difficult to form symmetrical shirts or collars with beautiful lines by these cloths. Especially, in case a collar cloth with a core piece shown in FIG. 11(a) is sewn, as shown in FIG. 11(b), the collar cloth 81 is fed and sewn from a joint portion 82 to a point 83 by straight stitches by a sewing machine, not shown. In this case, the collar cloth 81 is fed to a direction shown by an arrow in FIG. 11(b) by the feed member of the sewing machine, so that a portion between the joint portion 82 and the point 83 is deformed in a C-shape by shrinking the cloth and core piece thereat. Then, an angle of the cloth is changed at the point 83, and an R portion 84 is sewn to reach a point 85 in an opposite side. Thereafter, an angle of the cloth is changed again at a point 85, and a portion from the point 85 to a joint portion 86 is sewn by straight stitches. At this time, the cloth 81 is deformed in a C-shape at the point 85 as in the point 83. Since the points of the collar are deformed in the same direction, the collar cloth 81 is extremely deformed from the original shape (shown by dotted lines in FIG. 11(b)) due to so-called "C & C phenomenon" or "CC phenomenon", in which both sides of the collar become C-shapes. Also, in case the R portion and opening portions of the collar are sewn, the cloth is deformed in a C-shape. Since the collar is adhered and fixed with the adhesive core piece while the collar is being deformed, the collar is not laterally symmetrical.
Furthermore, from a property of the cloth, there are caused a "pulling thread" called as "a pilling phenomenon" wherein the sewing portion is pulled by the threads of the stitches by the sewing machine, and a so-called "twist phenomenon" which is caused by feeding the upper cloth and the lower cloth in the opposite directions by the feed member and the pressure foot of the sewing machine. Therefore, the sewing portion is not finished beautifully.
An object of the present invention is to provide a method for sewing a cloth by using a stretchable tape, wherein in case a cloth woven from superfine fibers such as Tactel cloth, an unstable cloth like a cloth woven from rayon, or a smooth cloth such as Burberry cloth and gabardine cloth (hereinafter referred to as "Burberry cloth or the like") is sewn by using a stretchable core piece, "pilling phenomenon" and "twist phenomenon" do not occur in a sewing portion of the cloth.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for attaching a stretchable core piece to a stretchable cloth, wherein a stretchable core piece is used as a lining for all portions of a garment made of the stretchable cloths so that the garment made of the stretchable cloths can have a certain rigidity, flexibility, and can be prevented from being wrinkled and deformed even if the garment is washed in water.
A further object of the invention is to provide a stretchable cloth, wherein when tension is released from the stretchable cloth after the tension is applied to the stretchable cloth, the stretchable cloth returns to an original shape.
Further objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following description of the invention.